Chapter 2 - Image Stabilization

 
     
 

Super Steady Shot

Image stabilization is a system that moves the lens elements of your camera in direct response to any physical motion of the camera - such as the inevitable shaking of your hands as they hold the camera. On the H-Series cameras, image stabilization is branded as "Super Steady Shot".

IS counteracts camera motion using two pair of gyroscopes (vertical and horizontal) to move a special lens element to cancel out "camera-shake" and the blurred ghosted images that result from it. Another way of preventing camera-shake is to shoot at a high shutter speed - so that even if your hands are shaking, the picture is taken so quickly that your motion doesn't matter.

Figure 2-1 Cross-Section Of Lens With Steady Shot


The H-Series image stabilization gives you approximately a 3-4 f/stop advantage over a camera without it.

But while IS can compensate for camera movement, it cannot compensate for subject movement. It can't stop your toddler from crossing the room while you shoot your picture. Therefore, IS is only really useful when shooting static, or relatively static subjects.

Setup Menu

The camera's Setup menu provides two Image Stabilization options: "Continuous" or "Shooting". On the H7 and H9, there is also an "off" option. On the H1-H5, Steady Shot is turned on or off using a button on the top of the camera body to the right of the viewfinder.

Do not use "Continuous" mode. I'm not even sure why it's there (it's not on the H7 and H9). There is no advantage that I can imagine to having the camera try to freeze your image (stabilize) while you're composing it. Using IS during composition is just frustrating - the camera attempts to prevent motion while you move about trying to line up your subject in the viewfinder or LCD.

Furthermore, it is not efficient. Having the camera constantly trying to freeze your image while you're trying to autofocus is not beneficial to either operation, and may, in fact, slow down autofocusing.

Note: I can see some circumstances in which you're having a lot of trouble steadying the camera on a long zoom shot where "Continuous" IS might theoretically help to autofocus. But I've not encounterd that, personally, in any real-life situation.

The bottom line is that the only time IS really matters is when the shutter is open. You want to prevent blur in your image, not your viewfinder.

Always use "Shooting" mode for IS.



Camera

Make sure IS is turned on. If you see a "shaking hand" icon with the word "OFF" over it at the bottom of the screen, your image stabilization is disabled. There's no reason to disable it. To turn it back on, click the IS button next to the viewfinder on your camera.

Figure 2-2 IS "Off" Icon


Note: There is no icon in the screen display to tell you that image stabilization is turned on. Only the icon to tell you when it is off.


Shutter Speeds


The H-Series image stabilization (
Super Steady Shot) really works. I have taken shots hand-held as slow as 1/15th second without shake or blur. Others have shot even slower. However, always keep in mind that image stabilization only works if the subject is still. If you're taking very slow shots, bracket. Take multiple shots of the same subject to ensure you get at least one really good one.

IS will overcome normal "camera shake", but it has its limits. Every movement of your camera is highly exaggerated by the long zoom, especially if you have a teleconverter on the end of your lens! So, even with IS, you need to take care when shooting to minimize the camera's movement. Use extremely slow shutter speeds only when the conditions demand it.


Tripod

All the H-Series manuals recommend turning IS off when using a tripod. That's to prevent the image stabilization from trying to stabilize an already-stable camera. Some IS systems automatically sense a stable base. Super Steady Shot is not one of those.

In fact, the H-Series cameras all feature a "shaky hand" similar to the Steady Shot icon (but without "off") to warn you that you might be at risk of camera shake. Unfortunately, the camera can't sense when you're already mounted on a tripod and often gives an erroneous warning. Use it only as a rough guide - something to make you aware that shake may be an issue, but don't depend on it to determine if you'll actually suffer camera shake in the final image.